October 18, 2012

Creating Faux Marble



     This is a cute table, perfect for a faux marble top. Sis and I, also, gave it a simple glazed finish.
     If you are a decorative artist, creating convincing marble finishes is part of the job. Some are more challenging then others, but I find creating Carrara marble simple to do. And with a few special tools and supplies, you can create your own.
 
     If this is your first attempt at painting marble, you might feel overwhelmed. That is okay. But I promise, you will feel better when the task is broken down into layers. So let's gather up some needed supplies
    On the table top, I used acrylic paint; however, you can use oil paint as well, which stays wet longer, so manipulating the paint is a lot easier. If you are more comfortable using oil paint, do not hesitate in using it because the steps are the same with either oil or acrylic
     1) You will need a glazing medium, either oil or acrylic. I used Perfetto, but any acrylic/oil glaze will do. I also like the Folk Art floating medium. 
     2) Stipple brush, primarily used to soften paint passages and backgrounds. If you don't have a stipple brush, use a regular house brush in a perpendicular fashion. 
     3) An assortment of brushes, large ones for brushing on glaze and smaller liner brushes for creating marble veins.
     4)  Sponge for creating backgrounds. 
     5)  Badger brush......to create any marble, you HAVE to have a softening brush. Depicted above, there is a small Badger brush and Hake brush (If you do not have one of these, you could try to use a soft-haired cosmetic brush that is normally used for applying powdered foundations or a fan blending brush from a craft store.)
     6)  A piece of real marble to use as a reference. (Sis loves Carrara marble, and this chunk of marble was once part of her coffee table. Yes, it is still a painful subject.) This is not mandatory.  You can use a picture from the internet as well.



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CREATING THE BACKGROUND

      Although we are creating Carrara marble that has a "white" background, painting a pure white background would be a bad start. 
1) White being the predominate color, notice that my pallet is in colors of creams and varying shades of light gray. Use your damp sponge to create a pleasing background while softening the colors with your stipple brush.  
2) When you are happy with the background that you have created, let it dry completely
Notes: If you are particularly fond of one of your marble layers, and you feel that it might be destroyed in subsequent layers; seal that layer with a sealer before proceeding on
I used white, satin interior house paint as a base. 


 THE FIRST LAYER

     Study your reference marble. Notice above the background, there are striations of blue/gray marble veins. That is what we will create next.
     Also in the picture above, notice that I have placed some glaze on the left hand plate. With a large brush, lay down a layer of pure glaze on your work piece. While the layer of glaze is still wet and using a liner brush, begin to strike through the glaze in a diagonal fashion with a light shade of blue-gray paint (white+black+blue= blue/gray). Quickly soften your brush strokes with a Badger brush or softening brush. When you are happy with your marble veins, let this layer dry

Notes:  
1) When using your Badger or softening brush, the vary tip of the brush should be the only part that strikes the work; use a very light touch when softening your colors.
2) If you are using acrylic paint, work in smaller sections because of the rapid drying time. 
3) Notice on the second plate, on the right hand side, that I have placed my acrylic colors on a damp piece of paper towel. This keeps the colors wet longer. It also helps to have a small spray bottle of water handy and spray your palette occasionally during your work period (This is not necessary when working in oil).  
4) While I am mixing my colors, I put a dab of glaze in the mixture.

   THE SECOND LAYER
   
     From the second layer on, you have to study your reference marble; and on the second layer, I see that we need to create some marble veins that are predominately colored a warm gray (blue-gray + brown= warm gray). So you do exactly what you did on the first layer, which was to paint a thin layer of pure glaze; next, using a small brush, create or emphasize marble veins with your warm gray. Then quickly soften your strokes with a softening brush. If there is a certain veining pattern in your reference marble that you find interesting, try to copy it. 
      I am calling the sample done on the second layer. But you could let this layer dry and continue adding more detail, using the same technique as in the first two layers. It's your call; you are the artist.  ~Sandy~







October 5, 2012

Repainting Vintage Mohawk Sign

     Vintage metal signs.....especially six foot, galvanized coated steel ones, how do you repaint them to weather the elements outside? That was the question that Sis and I faced recently. So we sought out some expert advise from Bill Clark, owner of Clark's Collision Center in Pearland, TX. 
     After showing him the sign, he explained that we needed to clean it well, sand down all flaking paint and rust with 3M automotive sanding pads, and apply a single stage, self-etching metal primer, making sure that all previous rusty areas were well covered. We, also, asked him about paint, and he suggested Best Rust Coat Enamel, which he felt was a very good oil base, enamel paint. So with this information, Sis and I got busy.

SUPPLIES: PRIMER, PAINT, SANDING PADS AND "A LOT" OF TAPE




   
     Below is a picture of the project as it progressed: 1950s Mohawk Carpet sign. Interestingly, Walt Disney Studios designed the "Tommy Mohawk" character for a series of animated commercials for Mohawk Carpet.


     If you plan on tackling a similar project, be prepared to use a LOT of tape and buy some extra X-acto Blades as well. However, after many hours, Sis and I are happy with the results..... Sandy


September 19, 2012

Endeavour

     Many, who live around the Houston or Clear Lake, Texas area, had a chance today to change their screen saver picture to a shot of the shuttle, Endeavour, which is on its way to Los Angeles, CA. Although we all knew that the shuttle program was coming to an end, watching the Endeavour take its final flight brings home the reality that it is an end of an era, which is bitter sweet. Sometimes you wish you could tempt change.


 
''Gimme one reason to stay here
and I'll turn'er back around''.....Tracy Chapman







September 5, 2012

Painted Orphan Chairs




   Orphaned chairs, most are lone survivors of bygone times that have a beauty all their own. Besides being functional, they make a great addition to any room.

      Usually, Sis and I prefer the painted finish on these chairs to look slightly distressed. One way we have found to achieve this look is by wet sanding. 

     There are a lot of variations of this finish that you can do, but I will use the finished Eastlake chair in the picture on the right hand side of the screen as an example. 

     First, we cleaned and sanded it well, and then we gave it two full-coverage coats of red latex paint. Next, we mixed up a lighter shade of the same red for the third coat. 


     In the picture below, the original paint color is on the right hand side of the sample, while a lighter shade of red is to the left. 
 

     When dry, we carefully wet sanded back the finish letting the bottom, darker-shade of paint show through.

     I enjoy this part. By using waterproof sand paper; clean dry rags; a spray bottle filled with water; and a pail of clean water to rinse out the sand paper...you can achieve any amount of distressing you want. Below is a closeup picture of the finish on the chair after being wet sanded.



     The finish is really very pretty. From a distance, it looks like a simple red chair; but on a close inspection, there is a variation in paint color. This finish could be very dramatic by choosing different colors of paint with a glaze/stain added on top; or like this example, be a very minimal finish. Lastly, we sealed the finish with a clear acrylic. 


NOTES on this finish:     

     1) We used acrylic paint for this example, but this finish really works well with oil paint. With acrylic, you will find that your sand paper will gum up a lot; hence, you will use more sandpaper.
     2) We used 600 grit waterproof sand paper in this example. As an aside on your topcoat, by using increasingly finer sand paper (2000+ grit can be found at an automotive center), you can create a mirror like finish if that is what you wish (creating a glossy finish is easier with oil).
     3) With your spray bottle, spray water sparingly on the furniture, keep your sandpaper wet, and dry off any excess water.
     4) Go slow and check your finish often while wet sanding.
     5) Before you begin, first do a sample of the finish that you have in mind, so you will have some practice and your color variations worked out.     
                ~ Sandy

July 28, 2012

Don Ray, Reclamation

      Sis and I went to an estate sale recently, and I found an Don Ray pen and ink drawing. Don Ray was a Texas artist that was noted for painting western themes and landscapes, who passed away in 2006.
     This was not a purchase; it was a rescue. I found the drawing neglected and grimy with a healthy colony of black mold growing behind the glass. Originally, the drawing was framed in a simple black picture frame under glass with a white mat.Very pretty it must have been; but now, the drawing has yellowed and foxing had occurred. I still would like to display the piece. My cleaning amounted to throwing away the mat and cardboard backing and dabbing the picture with alcohol.
     Using the materials that I already have on hand, I cut a new mat and covered it with fabric making sure that I used a color close to the yellowed drawing.

     After sanding the picture frame, I took it outside and sprayed it with brown Rust-Oleum. And just as the paint began to tack up, I burnished the frame with crumpled gold foil. You can, also, let the paint dry then size the frame and add your foil for a more even look. But I wanted a more sketchy look, so I skipped a step. 

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     1) I would like to create a weathered wood look to the frame, so I applied plaster around the inset of the molding. 
     2) After the plaster dried, I sanded back until I was satisfied with it leaving a little of the gold, cowboy-glam background peeking through. Then I sealed it with Polycrylic.

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     3) After the sealer dried, I stained the molding with a water based stain. 
     4) Then, I wiped the stain back to where I felt happy with it. 


And here is the outcome...rustic. 

And here is what it looks like finished. 

     Actually, the picture and frame looked nice at the rustic stage, but I couldn't resist adding some knots and some wood texture to the frame.
     I think Don Ray would approve. I asked, but I only heard from someone named Houdini.
  


July 18, 2012

Painted Cedar Chest, Completed

Drum roll, please........ 
  To view the before pictures, please go here. 
Yes, finished, but the major steps in getting here were:
Finishing the shield
Glazing the body of the chest
      We used Metal Glow's Pirates Gold as a base coat. Then we mixed Mixol pigments (Rehbraun #3, and Umbra #2) in Perfetto glaze for the translucency of color, and we built up the color in two passes after letting the first pass dry completely. 
 Sealing the chest
     We chose to seal the chest with Faux Effects' Varnish Plus in a satin finish. Although very durable, it is not necessarily a better product than other acrylic topcoats. However, when dry it has a very satiny-tactile feel to it that many others do not have. 
     If you choose to use this product for the first time on one of your projects that has hand painting or glazing done in latex or acrylic, you must first seal your art work before you topcoat with Varnish Plus because VP will cut right through your work, and you will end up with mess on your hands. Although you can brush this top coat on and lightly sand between coats, it is a lot easier to spray.

     This was a fun project....We hate to see it come to an end. You know what would be really pretty for a more feminine feel: do the embossing of the crocodile stencil as an all-over-stencil design; paint the piece pure white with little or no glazing; and add faux straps with pewter or bronze nail heads.....Now, that I'm thinking about it, Michelle Delgado from Wonder Faux carries some really pretty nail heads.......humm. 


June 25, 2012

Painted Cedar Chest, Cont., Continued


   Did I mention that there was a heraldic shield going on the top of the chest?  With a few minor changes, this is the progress; or for me, more fun stuff. 

Transferring image to the top of primed chest. 

Blocking in color.

Adding metallic gold and silver paint.  

A few more brush strokes.

Almost done.

June 7, 2012

Painted Cedar Chest, continued

        We have the chest primed and ready.....now, for the fun stuff. After samples were made and a drawing of the family shield was finished, and since the guys in the family were the primary users of the chest, the client wanted a more masculine design. It was decided that the top of the chest will have the family shield painted on a background of solid chocolate. While the belly of the chest will have an embossed alligator finish.


 We are using a stencil (Faux Effects International, Crocodile stencil) and a plaster (Faux Effects,Venetian Gem). The stencil has register marks, so we simply match up the registration marks while blading the plaster evenly through the stencil.....And Ta da, the embossed section of the chest is finished. The tape is removed, and the plaster is left to set up for a few days....Then comes more fun.
 














June 3, 2012

Painted Cedar Chest

     This is a fun project that Sis and I are working on. A client wants a cedar chest painted. None of us are quite sure how old it may be, but we are guessing that it was made around the thirties or forties. It has a few issues: peeling veneer, flecking shellac and numerous dings. But aside from that, it is in pretty good shape. 

     However, before the fun stuff can begin, we need to prepare the piece for painting. We felt that the bottom molding of the piece needed updating to take away the Art Deco feel, so we elected to replace it with simple 1"x4"s, which we routed the top edge with an ogee design and will cut a simple curve on the bottom. In the picture above, we have already installed a nailer piece on the bottom of the chest to accept the new molding.
 MITERING JOINTS
     In this project, it is not important to save the veneer; and where the veneer is peeling, we cut it out or chip the entire sheet off.
Now all that is left to do is the sanding......


                      and priming.












May 23, 2012

Shimek's Garden



     Nell and Harvey Shimek live in Alvin, Texas. Although they grow a multitude of plants, they are known for hybridizing and showing daylilies. Each spring at the height of the daylily bloom, they open their garden to the public. Last weekend, the Shimeks had at least an acre of daylilies that were in full bloom.        
     When most people think of daylilies, they think of the old-fashion  butter yellow ones. However, one glance at Shimek's garden, will quickly change your mind. Last weekend, you could find pale apricots, pretty pinks, and brilliant reds; single to triple blooms; and plants from dwarfs to tall spiders. Here is a quick glimpse......
    One of the best things about Shimek's open garden tour is that some of these plants can be yours. Because the Shimeks not only let you view their garden, you can buy plants too. They have people with shovels in hand waiting to help you. With an acre in bloom, the hardest part is picking out which ones you want to take home.

     The Shimeks have a passion for gardening and a willingness to share their knowledge. Their garden shows me what can be possible, not that I want two acres of daylilies. Although they have, no doubt, given away and sold daylilies far and wide, I think of the influence that they have had when I see daylilies putting on a show in the gardens around our area. I think that we are the fortunate ones.   ~Sandy~  

Shimek's Garden
3122 County Road 237
Alvin, TX 77511-8690
 281-331-4395

http://www.cityscope.net/~neshimek/







April 24, 2012

Marguerite Rogers House Museum's Garden Tour

    
  


 It must be spring (although someone living in Pennsylvania might disagree with me right now) because of all the home and garden tours that are taking place. So last weekend, Sis and I attended a local garden tour held in Alvin, Texas. The tour was for the benefit of the Marguerite Rogers House Museum, and it was held by the museum members in conjunction with the Alvin Garden Club.

MARGUERITE ROGERS HOUSE MUSEUM

      The home was built by John G. Slover, who was a carpenter by trade, and it took him from 1900 to 1909 to complete. I hate to admit it, but some of my simple DIY projects have taken longer. He also was very accomplished at creating gingerbread house molding, which he decorated his home with, inside and out.
   EARLY BAND SAW                                            MILLWORK                                                        HIS AND HERS                         

    From left to right, the first picture above shows an early router/band saw that Mr. Slover used to cut his millwork with; and the second picture shows some of his template designs pinned to the wall. I wonder what he would think of the computerized CNC routers that are used today to cut intricate designs in seconds. The third picture speaks for itself of changing times. I like the wallpaper. Not that long ago, some of the best family jokes were about outhouses. They always started with, "Do you remember the time when..." and ended in laughter. Although my experience is limited, I never feared the spiders. It was the snakes...... 
      The Alvin Garden Club held a plant sale at the museum. They offered many hard to find old-garden-varieties not necessarily offered by commercial growers.
     All day, the air carried the heavy scent of jasmine while the flowers put on a technicolor display as we toured from garden to garden. 
 It was a beautiful day for a garden tour. ~Sandy~

MARGURITE ROGERS HOUSE MUSEUM
113 EAST DUMBLE, ALVIN TEXAS

OPEN: THURSDAYS, FRIDAYS, FIRST SATURDAY OF EVERY MONTH from 11:00 to 3:00
281-585-2803